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8" Subs in Rear Deck

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jsampsell
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8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by jsampsell »

Hey everyone. I am now done with my project and thought I'd post a write-up for those of you who may be interested or could benefit from the information and pictures. If you do a search on the forum you will see that a member by the name of Boggus had already posted some information about doing this back in 2005 but I haven't seen anything recent and I thought I'd go into a little more detail than Boggus did.

So here goes.

For me, this project started with a smokin deal on a Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD head unit and it all went downhill from there. As these projects usually do. Of course, that's what makes them fun though. :)

Here's the list of stuff that I purchased to get me started:

***The list below is from my initial write-up. I have upgraded some things. They are on page 2.***
AVH-P4200DVD - Pioneer Head Unit
GEX-P20HD - HD Radio module
CD-BTB200 - Bluetooth module (for handsfree cell phone use - also plays stereo audio via BT)
CD-IU200V - iPod cable (in my case it is my iPhone)
CD-R55 - Wireless remote control (ended up giving it to a friend since the stereo is within regular reach in the Five Hundred and because I bought the steering wheel control adapter)
C2R-FRD1 - PAC factory wiring harness adapter (just makes it easier)
SWI-PS - PAC steering wheel control adapter
95-5812 - Metra double din install kit

Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of that install because I didn't do it. I paid a local shop to do it because I thought I wouldn't have time for it for a few weeks and I really wanted it installed. Plus, there's a certain amount of warranty that you get from a shop that installs it for you.

Anyhow, I knew that adding an aftermarket head unit would make the stock speakers sound different but I really didn't know what to expect. I have a Limited model which has the "Audiophile" sound system which sounded pretty good to me stock. The front and rear 5x7 door speakers are the same except that the fronts have an integrated tweeter. The two rear deck 6x9 speakers are "subs" run off of a stock two channel amplifier. Most of you already know this, I realize, but I'm just trying to be thorough.

I drove away from the install shop extremely excited about the new toys but became a little disappointed as I drove down the road. I was surprised that, with the supposed extra power from the head unit's amplifier to the door speakers and all the different settings that the unit provides for tweaking the sound, it didn't sound any better than it did. I played around with the settings and even kept track of the both the high and low crossover points along with the different EQ, sub "level", bass boost, and loudness settings. I found a couple variations that seemed to sound alright but I just wasn't ever satisfied.

So, I did the next most likely thing and replaced the door speakers. I replaced them with JL Audio TR570-CXi 3-way speakers and used the Metra 72-5600 Ford speaker adapters for an easy hookup.

That was definitely an improvement. Again, I knew it would be better, but I had no idea how much better. I was nicely surprised. They aren't the best speakers on the market by far but they are a vast improvement over the stock speakers.

I again played with the sound settings and found a couple settings that seemed to work well for my ears but now the low end seemed to get overpowered by the highs of the new door speakers.

A co-worker of mine and I were talking about this and he said he had the amp from his car that he just traded in at the house and that he'd sell it to me for $50. I looked it up and figured it shouldn't be too much for the stock subs and if it was then I could just go out and get me a decent 10" in a box and hook it up. That was a Pioneer GM-5400T 2-channel amp.

I bought a Rockford Fosgate RFK8I amp install kit from Best Buy thinking that 8 gauge would be sufficient for the power that the GM-5400T was running.

I got that installed the same weekend I pulled the interior to put the B-Quiet Extreme sound deadener in the car. Very easy install with the interior in but an extremely easy install with it out. :)

That was the best shock of all. I was blown away at how well the stock "subs" handled the extra power. I realized that the stock amp couldn't have been more than 35-50 watts per channel at best (I really have no idea, though). The extra power really sounded great in the car. It was much easier to find some sound settings that I liked with a closer matching low end than before.

That's when I ran across Boggus' post about putting 8" subs in the rear deck. And, of course, that got my brain working. I started doing some research on 8" subs. I started looking for more information on doing it myself. I found some decent priced subs on eBay and ordered a pair. Turns out they only had one in stock and they had to wait to get the other one in from their supplier. I had no problem with that. It happens.

Then I was contacted by a guy on another forum that he had a pair of used but in perfect condition 8" Eclipse subs for the same price I paid for the two JL Audio subs on eBay. I'm not sure why I couldn't find much on the internet about the model number of the Eclipse subs but I found some really good reviews, both professional and personal, about them so I contacted the sellers on eBay to see if they would give me a refund on my purchase since I had this other opportunity to have something sooner. They agreed and refunded my money the same day. I then sent the money to the guy via PayPal and had the subs within a few days.

That brings me to the project pictures.

As with any write-up, please realize that this is just how I did it so even though you may have the same car as I do that doesn't mean that it will be exactly the way the same project would go for you. Logic says it should be at least similar but...

Step 1: Remove the rear seat cushion. Boggus didn't mention this but it's not hard and I found it easier to get to the bolt that the side bolsters are attached to before you can remove those.
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Step 2: Remove the side bolsters (red arrows) by popping the lower plastic tab off of the bolt at the bottom (white arrow in second picture). Disregard the white arrows in the first picture. Also, the second picture shows the top of the rear seats removed but you do not have to remove them for this project.
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Step 3: Lower the upper seats.

Step 4: Remove the LH and RH trim pieces shown. There are two pieces per side. I've highlighted what areas go to each piece. There are two star head screws that you have to remove behind some plastic cover pieces. Then each area pops off with a little bit of force. If you've ever removed trim from this car you know what I'm talking about. It's not hard.
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Step 5: Pop the three plastic retaining "screws" from the panel (see picture in Step 6 - blue arrow shows one of these)

Step 6: Pull the rear deck cover backwards while lifting up slightly. You have to unclip a connector on the right side near the window (white arrow in picture) before pulling it out completely. The rear deck tail light comes out along with the panel. If you want to remove this panel completely you will have to unscrew the safety belt from the floor but you can just move the panel to the back of the front seats and you will have plenty of room to work.
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The next few pictures just show the rear panel with all the trim and the panel removed for reference.
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Step 7: Remove the factory speakers. Each one is held in by a 6mm bolt. Mine were not very tight at all. There's not much room back there so you'll have to use something pretty short to do this.
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The extra piece you see in the picture above is the Parking Aid Module. I didn't know what it was so I called a dealership and asked the parts department what it was.

Step 8: Measure and cut out pieces for the new 8" subs to sit down into the existing opening. I don't have specific pictures of this because it's a fairly easy thing to do and I didn't think about it while I was doing it. I measured the outer rim diameter of the speaker then the lip and then transferred that to a piece of cardboard. Then I placed the speaker on top of the cardboard and punched holes in it where the mounting holes were. After that I took the carboard cutout and transferred it to the bottom side of the rear deck on each side and marked the diameter with a pencil. Since the hole is already cut for the 6x9s it wasn't much material to cut out. It was just four small pieces with a jig saw and a bi-metal blade. Very easy.
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Step 9: Clean up the cuts and test fit the speakers

Step 10: Drill holes for the mounting bolts. I used the four factory bolts. I can't remember what diameter bit I used but the factor bolts went in just fine. I won't be running the subs at constant levels to have done any further securing methods than this. It should be sufficient for my purposes.

Step 11: Screw the speakers down.
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Step 12: Test your speakers.

Step 13: Reverse install the rear deck panel, side trim, seat bolsters and rear seat cushion and you are done.

After I got everything installed I was talking to someone else about what I had done and decided to install a 5-channel amp to power the four door speakers as well as the two new subs. So while I was installing these subs this past weekend I installed a new Infinity Reference 5350a amp along with a Rockford Fosgate RFK4I amp install kit since the Infinity amp is a little larger than the Pioneer. I didn't have time to run the wires to the doors but the subs sound even better on this amp than the Pioneer.

Once I get everything hooked up I will clean it all up and be good to go. I can't wait to hear the difference pushing the JL Audio door speakers to their best will sound. Then I've got some tinkering and tweaking to do with the new amp. All kinds of fun in store.

By the way, I also found a good deal on an Audiovox ACA200W rear view camera and got it installed as well. I had a little trouble with that but more on that later.

Hope this helps someone out down the road. For the rest of you, feedback is welcomed. Questions are also welcomed.

Jeremy
Last edited by jsampsell on Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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jsampsell
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by jsampsell »

A quick update: I made some time yesterday to run the front and rear source wire and the door speaker wire so that I could use the 5 channel amp completely. What an amazing difference pushing the actual RMS that each speaker is rated at. The clarity is night and day. The combination of the aftermarket door speakers, the 8" subs and the 5 channel amp has really allowed for a complete range of sound instead of some highs and some lows but really muddy mids. I am so incredibly surprised. You can read all day long about how this kind of setup is that much better but until you do it yourself and experience the difference it makes you just have no idea.

In order to make the install as easy as possible I went ahead and removed the rear seat cushion, the rear seat bolsters, the side trim and the trunk carpet. I suppose running wire could be done by pushing the wire underneath the trim and then fishing the cable up underneath the rear seat and trunk carpet but it doesn't take long to pull everything and it makes it so much easier to do this job. The trunk carpet hides some space for wires to fit in so that worked out perfectly. I wanted to run everything underneath the carpet anyway so that it was as clean of an install as possible.

Running the source wire was the easiest. The door speaker wire was the challenge, though. My first thought was that I'd just use the existing connection between the door and the interior but upon inspection the genius minds at Ford decided to just set up plastic connectors at those locations instead of making it just wires passing through. I'm sure there had to be some reason for this but it doesn't make sense to me. The fronts were worse than the rear as far as fishing the wire through since there isn't direct access to the area where that connector is on the inside. I had to pop out the connector from the outside and then poke a hanger through. It's also almost impossible to actually run the new speaker wire through the black plastic tube so I had to puncture both sides and have a little speaker wire show. That didn't bother me so I made it work.

The rear doors were not as difficult to run the wire and they were certainly easier to access but the connector didn't allow for passing any wire through so I had to go underneath the connector and tape it up really good with electrical tape so that water wouldn't short anything out. The connector now sticks out a little bit but, again, that didn't bother me too much so I went with it.

After getting everything run through the doors it was only a matter of labeling the wires and making the connections. After that I tested everything and then put all the trim, carpet and rear seat bolsters and cushion back in. Perfect. I'm very please. If you haven't checked out my post on the sound deadener install, please do. There are some good pictures there. There are a couple here that are duplicates but I wanted to post some pictures of the work yesterday along with some pictures of the head unit and the rear view camera install.

Front doors
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Trunk
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Interior
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Looking into trunk
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Amp
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Dash showing ProClips iPhone holder and the iPod cable
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Head unit showing sources
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HD source
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Bluetooth source
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Microphone install location for bluetooth module
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Rear view camera
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I ran the cable up through one of the tag light holes
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Then down with the existing cable into the trunk
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I made the power and video connections and hid them behind the LH trunk carpet
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Shot of video source from rear view camera (both the screen and the camera had pollen on them)
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Let me know if you have any questions. I'm happy to help now that I've gone through this.

Jeremy
Jeremy

KJM01
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by KJM01 »

very nice job. are those 8''s mid bass woofers or true subwoofers, cause i was thinking of doing that in my 05' 500 but i will have a box built under the rear deck.and how much power are you putting to those, i was thinking of two DD's 1008's(250w each)only cause i have the correct amp for them, but i wanted the 1508's(500w)but dont have the chavo right now to do both :(

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jsampsell
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by jsampsell »

KJM01 - Thanks! I bought these off of a guy on the caraudio.com forum. The guy that sold them to him actually contacted me via PM and said that he had them for review purposes and never installed them. They looked like they were brand new when I got them and they perform incredibly. To answer your question, though, I'm not sure if they are considered a mid-bass woofer or true subwoofers because these were made by the Eclipse company that no longer exists. I guess they were bought out or something. Anyhow, I couldn't find any information on them and the guy who originally bought them didn't have it anymore. I am inclined to think they are true subwoofers based on how they perform but they could just be mid-bass woofers for all I know. All I know is that I LOVE them. Actually I know that they are 150watt RMS @ 4 ohms each and my 5-channel amp is pushing 300 watts @ 2ohms so they are getting exactly 150 watts each. I thought about building a box for them under the deck but they perform so well in the IB setup that I didn't bother. These at 150 watts each are perfect for me but 250 or 500 watts each will definitely be much louder. I will say this about running 250 or 500 watts each, at 150 watts each I'm getting serious rear deck panel rattle at loud volumes on the right songs. 250 or 500 watts would just make that worse so you'd have to really make sure everything was secure back there. I don't listen to my music very loud so I rarely hear the rattle and haven't done anything about it yet. Good luck on your project! I'm happy to answer any questions you might have about it. I'm no professional but I did quite a lot to my car and can share what I experienced anyway. Take care!
Jeremy

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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by RStabb »

Beautiful job, thanks for the pics and info.

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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by KJM01 »

I tried to look those woofers up and they are a pretty rare item and are true subs(aka they like the lows lol), just a suggestion... if they rattle too much a good idea is to cut out a small 1/4'' hole of mdf for the subs to mount that will help reduce rattle but only if you have the space between the deck and cover. Also you can make a brace(doesnt have to be spectacular) in the trunk to stiffen the deck, or the most common add more sound deadener. Yeah 150w is loud especially in the position they are, but i got bit by the bug and the more power the better!!!( my 4yr old doesnt like it too loud anyways so i only play loud when im on my own!!

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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by platinumsc7 »

Your setup looks nice! I have a question about it- how did you run the power wire for the amp from the battery into the car? I looked at mine today and I don't see a good place to run it through. On my Fusion I ran it through the grommet for the clutch pedal but since the 500 never came with a manual option, that doesn't exist. Also, are those Fusion wheels on your car in your sig? They look like the 18's that came on the SAP Fusions.

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jsampsell
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by jsampsell »

platinumsc7 - I found a grommet with a wire coming in through the firewall behind and up to the left of the steering wheel. I can't remember what wire it is but the hole is easy to see from the engine compartment. I couldn't get my hand in there to fish the amp power wire through so I got a hanger and tied the amp wire onto it a few inches down from the tip and then wraped the entire end in electical tape creating a taper up to where the amp power wire began. That made it really easy. I found the hole and had to give it a fairly good push to get the fatter portion of the amp power wire through but the taper really helped make it easy getting through. After it was through it required a little more effort to get the cable through but if you take your time and pull it a little at a time you shouldn't have any problems with stretching the wire. That and it is a little on the hard side to stretch a 4awg wire. Ha!

Yes, those are 09 Fusion wheels. I'm not sure what SAP means but it is a sport package of some sort that my neighbor has on his 09 Fusion and after doing research on wheels that I could use my existing tires on I found out that these Fusion wheels are the same as the 18s that came on my Limited 500 except they are a half inch wider. I found these on eBay for a steal. The guy didn't post them correctly and apparently didn't know their value so I just got lucky. I think they definitely bring a sportier attitude to the car. Are they exactly what I like? No. But they are better than the fake-chrome wheels that I had on it.

Good luck running the amp power wire. I really don't think you should have a problem. If you do have trouble with it I can see about trying to take a picture from the engine compartment this weekend. Let me know.
Jeremy

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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by platinumsc7 »

Thanks for the fast response! It was hotter than hell here today so I didn't spend a whole lot of time looking, but it's pretty tight up under there. I will have to go out and look for that grommet tomorrow! By the way, SAP stands for Sports Appearance Package and those wheels are rather desirable in the Fusion community. They look damn good on your car. Thanks again!

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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by jsampsell »

I guess I was luckier than I thought if they are that desirable in the Fusion community. I paid $350 shipped for the set. Couldn't believe it. They were selling elsewhere for a bit more than that.
Jeremy

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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by MR.T »

Nice job!!!! :D
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2004 Ford F150 FX4 Ext Cab,5.4L V8, 105K
1998 Ford Ranger 4x4 Ext Cab, 4.0L V6, excellent condition, 100K**SOLD**

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ttw
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by ttw »

I know im a little late, but to anybody else looking to run amp wire just pull wiper arms and remove plastic trim under the arms in front of windsheild and there is a pretty big round grommet to get into dash.

To Jeremy
Do you think 10 inch subs will fit? Also have you had any problems since installation?
2006 five hundred se (wifes car)
2002 f150 supercrew lariat (daily driver)
1986 mustang gt convertible (just for fun)

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jsampsell
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by jsampsell »

ttw wrote:I know im a little late, but to anybody else looking to run amp wire just pull wiper arms and remove plastic trim under the arms in front of windsheild and there is a pretty big round grommet to get into dash.

To Jeremy
Do you think 10 inch subs will fit? Also have you had any problems since installation?
10s will "fit", yes. The only potential problem with 10s would be weight and movement while playing because the back shelf has pretty thin sheetmetal. I'm actually contemplating adding a piece of 1/2 inch MDF on the underside of my rear deck to make sure the drivers don't cause the metal to warp any. I've had them in for about 15 months now and an still loving them. I don't want to have to replace them.

The only problem I've had is the cover vibrating. I haven't taken the time to get in there and fix that.
Jeremy

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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by ttw »

well i just got finished installing the tens in rear deck. (pics to come soon) I used 3/4 MDF underneath deck. they are kicker comps powered by a INSIGNIA 2-channel 1000 watts class D bridgeable amp. The cover is vibrating bad!!! from the 3rd brake light hitting the window to the whole cover hitting the rear deck. If you fiqur out how to solve it PLEASE let me know.. Ill see what i can do with it this weekend.
2006 five hundred se (wifes car)
2002 f150 supercrew lariat (daily driver)
1986 mustang gt convertible (just for fun)

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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by KJM01 »

You can always bolt in a 1/2'' mdf panel under the sheetmetal and bolt the subs to the mdf, just cut a hole large enough for the subs to fit in.And you will need alot of sound deadening for that. Use the Nyloc nuts so they dont come loose!

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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by jsampsell »

ttw wrote:well i just got finished installing the tens in rear deck. (pics to come soon) I used 3/4 MDF underneath deck. they are kicker comps powered by a INSIGNIA 2-channel 1000 watts class D bridgeable amp. The cover is vibrating bad!!! from the 3rd brake light hitting the window to the whole cover hitting the rear deck. If you fiqur out how to solve it PLEASE let me know.. Ill see what i can do with it this weekend.
It wasn't that difficult was it? I was nicely surprsied at how easy it really was to put some good subs in that deck. My only problem now is sturdying up that thin metal with the MDF. Can't wait to see the pictures. I'm curious how you went about measuring and installing the MDF.

About the vibrating, you are running way more power to your subs than I am so I can only imagine how badly yours is vibrating. I had some small foam pieces in the garage out of a box of something that I purchased so I cut them into small pieces (enough for three) and put them underneath the rear deck cover toward the outside of the car on each side and one in the middle back toward the 3rd brake light. My thought was to raise the cover to allow for more room for woofer excursion but after testing that I found that it isn't really the excursion that is the problem but air displacement. The cover was raised at least an inch with the foam pieces so the woofers should not be hitting the cover any longer but the air displacement is causing the back edges of the cover to still rattle/vibrate against the back window. I think I'll look for some more foam to put back there to see if that will sure it up any.
KJM01 wrote:You can always bolt in a 1/2'' mdf panel under the sheetmetal and bolt the subs to the mdf, just cut a hole large enough for the subs to fit in.And you will need alot of sound deadening for that. Use the Nyloc nuts so they dont come loose!
Thanks for the recommendation. ttw did 3/4 inch but I'm thinking 1/2 inch should be fine too. He's got more weight with his 10s than I do so I should be fine with the 1/2 inch. I've never heard of Nyloc so I'll have to look that up. A new tool in the arsenal is always welcome. Thanks!

I'm about to create a new thread about thoughts on doing a custom install of a new head unit/processor I've ordered. Would love yall's opinions.
Jeremy

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ttw
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by ttw »

jsampsell wrote:
ttw wrote:well i just got finished installing the tens in rear deck. (pics to come soon) I used 3/4 MDF underneath deck. they are kicker comps powered by a INSIGNIA 2-channel 1000 watts class D bridgeable amp. The cover is vibrating bad!!! from the 3rd brake light hitting the window to the whole cover hitting the rear deck. If you fiqur out how to solve it PLEASE let me know.. Ill see what i can do with it this weekend.
It wasn't that difficult was it? I was nicely surprsied at how easy it really was to put some good subs in that deck. My only problem now is sturdying up that thin metal with the MDF. Can't wait to see the pictures. I'm curious how you went about measuring and installing the MDF.

About the vibrating, you are running way more power to your subs than I am so I can only imagine how badly yours is vibrating. I had some small foam pieces in the garage out of a box of something that I purchased so I cut them into small pieces (enough for three) and put them underneath the rear deck cover toward the outside of the car on each side and one in the middle back toward the 3rd brake light. My thought was to raise the cover to allow for more room for woofer excursion but after testing that I found that it isn't really the excursion that is the problem but air displacement. The cover was raised at least an inch with the foam pieces so the woofers should not be hitting the cover any longer but the air displacement is causing the back edges of the cover to still rattle/vibrate against the back window. I think I'll look for some more foam to put back there to see if that will sure it up any.
KJM01 wrote:You can always bolt in a 1/2'' mdf panel under the sheetmetal and bolt the subs to the mdf, just cut a hole large enough for the subs to fit in.And you will need alot of sound deadening for that. Use the Nyloc nuts so they dont come loose!
Thanks for the recommendation. ttw did 3/4 inch but I'm thinking 1/2 inch should be fine too. He's got more weight with his 10s than I do so I should be fine with the 1/2 inch. I've never heard of Nyloc so I'll have to look that up. A new tool in the arsenal is always welcome. Thanks!

I'm about to create a new thread about thoughts on doing a custom install of a new head unit/processor I've ordered. Would love yall's opinions.
It was pretty easy just took me a week of working on it 2-3 hrs after work till dark, and having to wait till next day to get what i needed. I used the 3/4 mdf because that was what kicker recommended. After all the work though i had to take them back down and put them back in the box.. there was just no way around it except for cutting the carpet and mounting them on top. Im looking for a carpet peice at junkyards to cut up to see if that helps without cutting the one in there now.
As far as mounting mdf i made and used a cardboard cut out. with alot of climbing in and out of trunk. i also mounted the subs directly to the mdf and then bolted the mdf to rear deck with wifes (help) if you want to call it that... With the subs so close to window i that that was best option to get them screwed down in the back.
2006 five hundred se (wifes car)
2002 f150 supercrew lariat (daily driver)
1986 mustang gt convertible (just for fun)

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jsampsell
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by jsampsell »

ttw wrote:It was pretty easy just took me a week of working on it 2-3 hrs after work till dark, and having to wait till next day to get what i needed. I used the 3/4 mdf because that was what kicker recommended. After all the work though i had to take them back down and put them back in the box.. there was just no way around it except for cutting the carpet and mounting them on top. Im looking for a carpet peice at junkyards to cut up to see if that helps without cutting the one in there now.
As far as mounting mdf i made and used a cardboard cut out. with alot of climbing in and out of trunk. i also mounted the subs directly to the mdf and then bolted the mdf to rear deck with wifes (help) if you want to call it that... With the subs so close to window i that that was best option to get them screwed down in the back.
I figured cardboard was going to be the best way to do it but I thought I'd ask. Sometimes other people think of things I'd never think of myself.

I'm curious, though, what was the problem with the carpet on top exactly? Why would you need to cut the carpet up? I mounted mine from the top. I angled them in from the bottom to get them in but they are mounted from the top. I did have to cut away some of the foam stuff that is on the bottom of the tray but that was easy. I just am curious as to why you'd need to cut the whole tray up though.

You are right about them being close to the back glass. I was a little nervous working that close to the glass but everything came out fine.
Jeremy

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ttw
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by ttw »

jsampsell wrote:
ttw wrote:It was pretty easy just took me a week of working on it 2-3 hrs after work till dark, and having to wait till next day to get what i needed. I used the 3/4 mdf because that was what kicker recommended. After all the work though i had to take them back down and put them back in the box.. there was just no way around it except for cutting the carpet and mounting them on top. Im looking for a carpet peice at junkyards to cut up to see if that helps without cutting the one in there now.
As far as mounting mdf i made and used a cardboard cut out. with alot of climbing in and out of trunk. i also mounted the subs directly to the mdf and then bolted the mdf to rear deck with wifes (help) if you want to call it that... With the subs so close to window i that that was best option to get them screwed down in the back.
I figured cardboard was going to be the best way to do it but I thought I'd ask. Sometimes other people think of things I'd never think of myself.

I'm curious, though, what was the problem with the carpet on top exactly? Why would you need to cut the carpet up? I mounted mine from the top. I angled them in from the bottom to get them in but they are mounted from the top. I did have to cut away some of the foam stuff that is on the bottom of the tray but that was easy. I just am curious as to why you'd need to cut the whole tray up though.

You are right about them being close to the back glass. I was a little nervous working that close to the glass but everything came out fine.
No matter what i tried the carpet just rattled unless i was back there holding it down, it was unlistenable. Thats why i wanted to experiment with another peice to see if that was the problem. I cut the holes in the rear deck bigger and mounted subs to the mdf, mainly cus the metal was not flat all the way around where sub was to be mounted. I did remove the insulation from the carpet, where the holes are but i suppose there is just too much air deplacement from the subs.
2006 five hundred se (wifes car)
2002 f150 supercrew lariat (daily driver)
1986 mustang gt convertible (just for fun)

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jsampsell
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Re: 8" Subs in Rear Deck

Post by jsampsell »

ttw wrote:No matter what i tried the carpet just rattled unless i was back there holding it down, it was unlistenable. Thats why i wanted to experiment with another peice to see if that was the problem. I cut the holes in the rear deck bigger and mounted subs to the mdf, mainly cus the metal was not flat all the way around where sub was to be mounted. I did remove the insulation from the carpet, where the holes are but i suppose there is just too much air deplacement from the subs.
Ah, I see. That makes sense. I definitely think it's the displacement. That's got me thinking that maybe making some trim rings to kind of port the sound up instead of throughout the underside of the tray might do the trick. The only thing then is how do you address the carpet in the tray that is perforated where the stock speakers were. I'm going to look into some speaker grilles and see if I can paint them to closely match the color of the carpet and pressure set them into the tray over where those trim rings would go. What do you think about something like that? Not necessarily whether you'd do it for your car or not but whether it would actually work. I'll have to run this idea by a few guys that I know do car audio installation for a living.
Jeremy