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Stop using the Volvo bushing : Dorman Offers a Replacement

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360Alaska
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Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 2:48 am

Stop using the Volvo bushing : Dorman Offers a Replacement

Post by 360Alaska » Sun Mar 24, 2013 3:03 am

My roll restrictor was on its last leg; I looked at the Volvo solution and wasn't impressed so I found this on Rockauto… It's an exact fit, you'll need a press to remove the old one and insert the new one... It comes with insertion/removal tools, but you'll still need a press, the instructions say 8000 lbs is required to press it out but came out at about 3k... This whole kit runs about 65 dollars on Rockauto, just thought I’d share…
Part number: Dorman 917-037
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Edsel II
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Posts: 531
Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2007 2:38 pm

Re: Stop using the Volvo bushing : Dorman Offers a Replaceme

Post by Edsel II » Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:13 pm

Good news! How hard was it to get the assembly out of the car so you could get it on the press? I haven't taken a close look, but looks like some of the bolts are hard to get to.

360Alaska
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Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 2:48 am

Re: Stop using the Volvo bushing : Dorman Offers a Replaceme

Post by 360Alaska » Mon Mar 25, 2013 11:12 pm

I could access all of the bolts with a swivel, I think they were 13s. I then removed the main air tube, disconnected the egr valve tube, the pcv valve hose, the hose to the front valve cover, and the hose to what I think is the evap solenoid. (On the passenger’s side shock mount) then I unbolted the upper intake and all I had to do was pick it up 3 inches so the bracket would clear the starter. You might be able be able to remove it by pulling the throttle body and starter... On the bottom of the bracket there is there is one of the clips to help route your wire harness away from the egr valve tube… All in all, it wasn't too bad, it took me about 2 hours and if you have changed your plugs before it's no big deal...

Edsel II
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Posts: 531
Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2007 2:38 pm

Re: Stop using the Volvo bushing : Dorman Offers a Replaceme

Post by Edsel II » Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:15 pm

I've been thinking - I'm currently using the bodged-up bushing from Energy Suspension, that's actually for another car. When the engine is cold, the urethane bushing is a tight fit into the aluminum mount. However, when the engine is hot, the aluminum mount heats up to the point that the bushing slides around and won't stay put.

In using the Dorman mount, I wonder if it would slide in if you put it in the freezer, and tried to install it when the engine is hot. Maybe the combination would provide enough clearance for it to slide in without too much effort?

Tomcat
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Posts: 120
Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:56 am

Re: Stop using the Volvo bushing : Dorman Offers a Replaceme

Post by Tomcat » Mon Apr 15, 2013 10:09 am

I installed the Dorman mount and heated the bracket with a torch. Heating does make it easier but you'll still need something to press it in. I used a spring compressor (with an air impact wrench) that I used to change struts and it went in.

05-Montego
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Posts: 99
Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2011 10:11 am

Re: Stop using the Volvo bushing : Dorman Offers a Replaceme

Post by 05-Montego » Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:13 pm

Thanks for sharing! My Volvo bushing has about 16,000 miles on it and is still holding strong but if/when it gives out I'll give this one a try.
Image
2005 Mercury Montego Premier

Blaine B.
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Posts: 140
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:31 pm
Location: Indiana

Re: Stop using the Volvo bushing : Dorman Offers a Replaceme

Post by Blaine B. » Thu Apr 25, 2013 11:50 pm

I bought this from Amazon for around $50 last month. I'm not replacing it quite yet as my stock mount is just starting to show signs of cracking @ 50,000 miles.

Blaine B.
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Posts: 140
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:31 pm
Location: Indiana

Re: Stop using the Volvo bushing : Dorman Offers a Replacement

Post by Blaine B. » Mon May 18, 2015 11:22 am

By the way, I am reporting back nearly two years after I bought the Dorman bushing to say that I finally installed it yesterday.

My bushing was beginning to tear but was not completely disintegrated, which is why I waited. But I said, heck, since I have this bushing around, and since I recently purchased a ball joint press, why not just install it.

Turned out that the old bushing was more brittle than I had originally assumed.

Anyway, I removed the strut brace (big black bar) with 4 bolts, after removing the bolt that goes through this engine torque bushing/transmission mount. First disconnect that vacuum harness that runs over top of the strut brace on the passenger side.

I also removed the air intake tube and throttle body for more access.

To remove the old bushing, I used a chisel and then a reciprocating saw to cut through the old bushing until I could just push it out.

To install, I used my Snap On BJP ball joint press, which is rather large. I positition the press over the intake manifold. If you remove the battery, it would probably be a lot easier to use it the opposite way, but because I didn't want to lose the engine computer memory, I left the battery in place.

Since I was doing this with the bracket still attached to the motor, I couldn't use the orange plastic alignment tool. But if you install the new bushing the same way as the old one, you won't have any problems. Everything lined up just fine afterwards.

I took the car on a short drive. I really don't "feel" anything different. But then again, my old bushing was not completely torn through.
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