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Engine mount shot

Discuss anything related to the engine, electronics, transmission, etc.
rksmith88
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Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:56 pm
Location: Skowhegan, Maine

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by rksmith88 » Wed Jan 02, 2013 3:22 pm

NAPA has the mount available for about $75.00, part number is 7357817. Mine has 163K and needs to be replaced.
2012 Ford Taurus Limited AWD black exterior and black leather interior.


ddderek
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Posts: 115
Joined: Sun May 20, 2012 7:57 pm

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by ddderek » Thu Jan 03, 2013 2:51 pm

rksmith88 wrote:NAPA has the mount available for about $75.00, part number is 7357817. Mine has 163K and needs to be replaced.
The actual Ford part or the Volvo fix? If it is the actual Ford part, some have reported that they replaced it using that and that it failed again. The Ford rubber is very soft and is ultimately a bad design that will keep on costing you money. I would be hesitant to replace with the same original part due to it's inferior construction.
Owner of:
2005 Ford 500 SEL (totaled at 98k) :(
2008 Mercury Sable Premier
2008 Taurus Limited
2009 Taurus SEL (daughter bought and moved to California)

kb9skw
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Posts: 108
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 2:40 pm
Location: Madison WI

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by kb9skw » Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:54 pm

Well my car us up over 85,000 miles and it is time for me to perform this maintenance. I ended up getting the Anchor Torque Strut Mount Part # 3182 from Rockauto for $15 plus shipping. It looks like it is a direct fit replacement for the bushing so all I should have to do is remove the bracket, push out the old bushing and press in the new one.

I can only hope... :roll:
2006 Five Hundred SEL, Black Exterior, Gray Leather. 6-Disk MP3, Moonroof. 3.0L V6

2008 Ford F150 XTL 4x4 SuperCab, Dark Peril Blue/Silver Two Tone, Flint Cloth. 5.4L FFV V8.

ddderek
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Posts: 115
Joined: Sun May 20, 2012 7:57 pm

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by ddderek » Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:05 pm

Yeah, I see it's at Oreilly Auto parts for $34... Everyone was saying you had to buy thing thing complete with the arm for several hundred bucks!

I wonder if this is a relatively new offering? It will definitely prove for less of a lurch compared to the stiff Volvo bushing that everyone has been buying to use.

I just hope it does rip quite as quickly as the first one did... for your sake.
Owner of:
2005 Ford 500 SEL (totaled at 98k) :(
2008 Mercury Sable Premier
2008 Taurus Limited
2009 Taurus SEL (daughter bought and moved to California)

kb9skw
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Posts: 108
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 2:40 pm
Location: Madison WI

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by kb9skw » Sun Mar 10, 2013 9:52 am

Well I was able to get part installed tonight. The biggest issue we faced is that the Anchor Part # 3182 is slightly bigger than the alu bracket it needs to be pressed into. Nothing that some time on a lathe can not fix.

A few pictures to better see what we did.

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2006 Five Hundred SEL, Black Exterior, Gray Leather. 6-Disk MP3, Moonroof. 3.0L V6

2008 Ford F150 XTL 4x4 SuperCab, Dark Peril Blue/Silver Two Tone, Flint Cloth. 5.4L FFV V8.

ddderek
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Posts: 115
Joined: Sun May 20, 2012 7:57 pm

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by ddderek » Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:44 am

Problem is... few of us have a lathe or micrometer for that matter to fine tune car parts!
Owner of:
2005 Ford 500 SEL (totaled at 98k) :(
2008 Mercury Sable Premier
2008 Taurus Limited
2009 Taurus SEL (daughter bought and moved to California)

Tomcat
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Posts: 120
Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:56 am

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by Tomcat » Mon Mar 11, 2013 2:59 am

Looks nice. I agree not having a lathe would be an issue. I'm just thinking to myself if someone could get it by heating the arm and / or freezing the bushing without doing any machining.

dwcopple
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:06 pm

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by dwcopple » Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:19 am

Tomcat wrote:Looks nice. I agree not having a lathe would be an issue. I'm just thinking to myself if someone could get it by heating the arm and / or freezing the bushing without doing any machining.
the bushing is not metal, freezing it would be pointless, wouldn't it? I agree about heating the metal though. You should be able to force 1mm of rubber in there.

Tomcat
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Re: Engine mount shot

Post by Tomcat » Fri Mar 15, 2013 3:49 pm

Isn't the bushing metal since he had to put it on a lathe to get the diameter reduced? Looks like metal chips from the photo posted kb9skw.

kb9skw
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Location: Madison WI

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by kb9skw » Sat Mar 16, 2013 5:24 pm

Indeed the bushing is metal, or I should say the rubber sits inside a metal sleeve. I read somewhere on the Freestyle forum of someone trying the freezing and heating trick and it did not work so I just went directly to shaving off a few layers of metal from the sleeve.

What I did was remove the bolt from the old bushing and remove the torque arm from the strut wells. With my bushing the rubber was broke but not work away so we removed the inner part of the bushing then cut out the remaining rubber. Then we peened the metal part some with a chisel and used a pneumatic saw to cut it some, allowing it to loosen up. This is why it looks all trashed.

Then we put the new bushing on the lathe, took it down in size a bit and pressed it into the alu housing, reattached the arm and bolted the bushing in.

Done
2006 Five Hundred SEL, Black Exterior, Gray Leather. 6-Disk MP3, Moonroof. 3.0L V6

2008 Ford F150 XTL 4x4 SuperCab, Dark Peril Blue/Silver Two Tone, Flint Cloth. 5.4L FFV V8.

Marty C.
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Re: Engine mount shot

Post by Marty C. » Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:56 pm

http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewto ... 29#p107429

Guys if you go to the above URL and read the posts you'll find you don't need a lathe or torch. The bushing can be replaced without removing the bracket or ANY engine parts. I used a Dorman kit that had sleeves/collars to remove the old bushing and install the new one. No press needed. In fact , if you've got several pieces of heavy steel and a heavy duty C clamp they would work. One thing, don't try to press the old bushing out. Instead use a hacksaw blade and make 2 cuts about 45 degrees apart on the top of the Cushing. Collapse the cut section with a cold chisel and remove the rest. If you've ever pressed bearing on and off anything you'll know how to proceed with or without the mentioned sleeves/collars.

Hope this helps making your replacement easy.

Marty C.
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Re: Engine mount shot

Post by Marty C. » Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:10 pm

SORRY for the bad URL in my prior post. This is the correct one:

http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewto ... 29#p107429

Budman
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Location: Montana

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by Budman » Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:28 am

rksmith88 wrote:NAPA has the mount available for about $75.00, part number is 7357817. Mine has 163K and needs to be replaced.
Did you install this napa part? What are the rings that are in the photo on the napa site. They look like shims.
Thanks
2007 Ford Five Hundred Limited Maroon exterior, Black leather interior.

Hallelujahh
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Re: Engine mount shot

Post by Hallelujahh » Wed Apr 24, 2013 1:19 pm

I believe I found the perfect solution for replacing the torque strut mount/engine bracket bushing that rots out on the 2005 Ford Five Hundred. I purchased the bushing for the mount at O'reilly's, part#3182, Anchor- Torque Strut Mount, for $34.99. After getting quoted ridiculous amounts of money like $450 from Pep Boys and uninformed answers from Ford service representatives I disconnected the torque mount while I had the intake manifold off, rode my bike up to a nearby auto mechanic shop and for $40 a tech pressed the old bushing out of the mount with some sort of press and pressed in the new bushing in less than an hour. Presto: Just like new and like the OEM part. It works great. The service guy at Pep Boys made it seem like it was going to be a very cumbersome job and two different Ford service departments had no idea what I was talking about. Here's a real easy solution to this problem compared to using parts from Volvo and getting absurd, varying labor and cost estimates.

ddderek
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Re: Engine mount shot

Post by ddderek » Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:55 pm

Hallelujahh wrote:I believe I found the perfect solution for replacing the torque strut mount/engine bracket bushing that rots out on the 2005 Ford Five Hundred. I purchased the bushing for the mount at O'reilly's, part#3182, Anchor- Torque Strut Mount, for $34.99. After getting quoted ridiculous amounts of money like $450 from Pep Boys and uninformed answers from Ford service representatives I disconnected the torque mount while I had the intake manifold off, rode my bike up to a nearby auto mechanic shop and for $40 a tech pressed the old bushing out of the mount with some sort of press and pressed in the new bushing in less than an hour. Presto: Just like new and like the OEM part. It works great. The service guy at Pep Boys made it seem like it was going to be a very cumbersome job and two different Ford service departments had no idea what I was talking about. Here's a real easy solution to this problem compared to using parts from Volvo and getting absurd, varying labor and cost estimates.
$75, taking the entire bracket and intake manifold off, riding bike to store.... I'll stick with the $15 Volvo bushing or maybe next time I'll use the hockey puck method!
Owner of:
2005 Ford 500 SEL (totaled at 98k) :(
2008 Mercury Sable Premier
2008 Taurus Limited
2009 Taurus SEL (daughter bought and moved to California)

Marty C.
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Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:55 pm

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by Marty C. » Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:10 pm

There is more on this bushing at" new idea for a bad roll rest for bushing".

Jmichael
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Location: Olathe, KS

Upper Engine mount shot

Post by Jmichael » Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:48 pm

I just did the upper engine mount repair. Total cost was less than $10 and about 30 minutes. I bought part #9434263 from Rockauto.com for $5.19 plus shipping. I had to cut off the ends to be flush with the mount. I cut the excess rubber out of the engine mount but not all as the replacement bushing is smaller.
The actual installation took all of 15 minutes. The only bolt to remove is the one in the center of the bushing. No need to remove any others such as the ones attached to the body. The mount can be moved very easily out of the way.
I used two flat bars, one on the side of the bushing and the other on the mount. I then used a 10" C-clamp to press the new one in. When it was in the right place, I lowered the mount back in place and reused the same bolt.

Boy, does this thing shift much better now.

The local Ford dealer wanted about $350.00 to replace.

I bought two bushings in case I need to do it again in a few years .

I have 111,011 miles on this 2005 SEL. :D
2005 SEL, Moon Roof, Leather Seats, RedFire

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LuckyMike
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Location: Orlando, FL

Re: Engine mount shot

Post by LuckyMike » Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:45 pm

I've changed mine twice now. First time at 81,000 and just recently at 138,000. Car now has 141,000 miles on it. I used sand paper to make the diameter smaller, a big C-clamp, a steel fence post cap and some 1/4 steel plates to press the bushing in. Cut the old out with a hacksaw.

While your at it I would change the lower one too. It's really easy to change as long as you can use two hands and have the large star plus bit or just use a vise grip on the star bolt.
Attachments
IMG_4026[1].JPG
Lower torque bushing cracked.
IMG_4026[1].JPG (116.31 KiB) Viewed 1005 times
IMG_4025[1].JPG
Lower torque bushing.
IMG_4025[1].JPG (118.81 KiB) Viewed 1005 times
Mike

2007 Ford Five Five Hundred SEL
1999 Ford Mustang
1994 Ford Aerostar Minivan
1994 Ford Escort Wagon
1978 Ford Enconoline
1983 Nissian 200SX
1973 Buick Opel

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