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Finally replaced head unit. Factory amp pops on power on.

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poonjahb
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Finally replaced head unit. Factory amp pops on power on.

Post by poonjahb » Sat Jan 28, 2006 10:35 pm

I know I've seen a thread that mentioned this before, but I can't seem to find it using the search, so I apologize in advance for repeating stuff.

I finally got my Kenwood DDX-7017 installed today in my 06 500 Ltd. I kept the factory speakers, amp and "subs" where they were for now. The only problem I have now is that the factory amp pops when it powers on. I know I've seen it mentioned before that the factory amp remote turn on wire is less than 12 volts, which is what my Kenwood is putting out, but cannot for the life of me find the thread that talked about it. Can anyone help me with the proper voltage for that, and is there an easy way to step it down from 12 volts to the 5 or 6 that it needs?

TIA


poonjahb
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Post by poonjahb » Sat Jan 28, 2006 11:24 pm

Think I may have found a solution. I'm pretty good with car electronics, but I'm not entirely sure this is what I need. Does anyone here have a little more of an electronics background that may be able to answer this question?

If I connect a 5.1 volt Zener Diode in the remote turn on wire, will that drop the voltage down to what I want for the remote turn on of the factory amp? I've been trying to research it a bit online, but I get lost in the technical jargon that I've been able to find about these things. I think I may try picking one up and see what it does for voltage (outside of the car) first, but any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.

Sandog
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Post by Sandog » Sun Jan 29, 2006 12:25 am

PAC makes something to remedy this, I just cannot remember what it is.
2005 Limited AWD 500

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bobm500
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Post by bobm500 » Sun Jan 29, 2006 8:26 am

PAC does sell a device for this application. Here it is.

http://www.pac-audio.com/products/produ ... %20Modules

This device will allow you to add an aftermarket amp to a factory radio. This unit will get you a 12V turn on signal with a delay built in to eliminate the pop. It does not mention reducing a voltage signal for the same purpose if you are using it in the opposite application. Aftermarket radio/factory subwoofer amp.
Bob

'06 Limited, Titanium/Pebble, Moonroof, Rev Sen, TC, XCal1, Sylvania Silverstar lamps, K&N Air Cleaner, Painted Brake Calipers, Chrome Exhaust Tips, P.I.E. AUX & Sirius, Alpine & Kenwood speakers.

JBirdZee
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Post by JBirdZee » Sun Jan 29, 2006 3:36 pm

Well, poon doesn't want to add an aftermarket amp to a factory head unit..... he wants to add an aftermarket head unit to a factory amp.

You could use the 5.1V Zener...... you need to put the Zener across the input to the factory amp (From Remote Power on to Ground) and hook a series resistor between the factory amp and the head unit.

I would just use two 1k resistors and make a voltage divider to give you like 6 or 7 volts.

Also.... I've been inside of that factory amp before..... I would venture to say that you could just use a 1k resistor between your new HU and the factory amp without dropping down the voltage at all. You are limiting the current enough with the 1k to pretty much keep anything 'bad' from happening. (It's less than 10mA if the amplifier is clipping the input at 5V)

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Grey
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Post by Grey » Sun Jan 29, 2006 4:23 pm

Some factory amps exhibit the POP noise when the radio is turned on, especially after it has been off for over an hour in cold temperatures. I'm told that the Ford engineers are working on a solution for these radios and that may also solve your problem.

When you are at your dealership, ask them to run OASIS and code electrical-entertainment system on your VIN. That will provide the latest information from Ford on the subject. In the mean time, if you find a solution, let your service manager know and he/she can put in a notice to Ford, that you solved your issue and how. (Not just being politically correct with he/she - in my region there were over a half dozen female service managers - some of the best.) 8)

poonjahb
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Post by poonjahb » Sun Jan 29, 2006 4:26 pm

What about using something like this to drop the voltage? I found some schematics for using the Zener diodes, but I get lost in them. If I were to hook the input side of this to the remote from my deck, the ground to a ground point and the output to the wire going to the factory amp turn on circuit I should be pushing 5v to it. I picked one of these up today at RadioShack and am planning on trying to hook it up sometime within the next couple of days. JBirdZee, do you think this would work? I'm guessing by your responses that you have a little more of a technical electronics background.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... age=search

Also, does anyone know how much heat something like this puts out? From what I've read they run pretty cool, and much cooler than a resistor and diode setup. I'm just wondering if I need to worry about putting this in my dash if I attached it to a metal support bracket where it wouldn't be able to move around.

poonjahb
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Post by poonjahb » Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:41 am

Well, I guess I have never really been patient about anything. Plus, I didn't like to think what that popping was doing to my speakers or amp. I installed the voltage regulator that I picked up from Radio Shack this evening. Everything went very smoothly, and there is no more popping when the stereo turns on, which is nice. I let it play for about 30 minutes and stuck my hand back in the dash and the regulator was still cool to the touch, so I don't think I'll have any heat issues to worry about. Thanks to everyone for the replies.

JBirdZee
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Post by JBirdZee » Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:13 pm

PJ - You've got your solution...super!

FYI-You'll be fine with this. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. The regulator 'Regulates' by dissipating heat. The more current you draw, the hotter the part will get. That remote turn on wire doesn't draw much of anything, so the regulator will never really get hot.

The way to figure out if it would get hot is:

(Voltage into regulator - Voltage Out of the regulator)*(Load Current) = Power dissipated as heat through this IC.

So in your app it is (13.2Vin - 5Vout)*10mA (And 10mA I would bet is a conservatively high number) would be 72mW, or less than 1/10 of 1 watt. You'll be just fine with this.

poonjahb
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Post by poonjahb » Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:05 pm

JBirdZee,

Thanks for the reply. It puts my mind at ease a little about the heat issue (or non-issue i suppose). I guess I'm just a little too impatient for my own good, but it worked out this time. I hope this can help anyone else out there that runs into a similar situation with changing the head unit and wanting to keep the rest of the system stock for the time being.

Thanks again.

Cannon
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Re: 05 Ford hundred factory amp

Post by Cannon » Tue Oct 31, 2017 2:50 pm

JBirdZee wrote:
Sun Jan 29, 2006 3:36 pm
Well, poon doesn't want to add an aftermarket amp to a factory head unit..... he wants to add an aftermarket head unit to a factory amp.

You could use the 5.1V Zener...... you need to put the Zener across the input to the factory amp (From Remote Power on to Ground) and hook a series resistor between the factory amp and the head unit.

I would just use two 1k resistors and make a voltage divider to give you like 6 or 7 volts.

Also.... I've been inside of that factory amp before..... I would venture to say that you could just use a 1k resistor between your new HU and the factory amp without dropping down the voltage at all. You are limiting the current enough with the 1k to pretty much keep anything 'bad' from happening. (It's less than 10mA if the amplifier is clipping the input at 5V)
I was going to check and see since you've been into these hams if you may know what the factory amp would be max wattage and possibly RMS wattage

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Re: Finally replaced head unit. Factory amp pops on power on.

Post by mmsstar » Tue Oct 31, 2017 3:30 pm

Welcome, you know this topic is over 10 years old? Someone may still have an answer.

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